Many skincare and makeup formulas rely on a specialized applicator or tool for consumer experience and best results. We asked packaging suppliers about the latest innovations in applicators and brushes for cosmetic packaging—and found many innovative, exciting solutions, for makeup and skincare products.
But first, SUBTL Beauty attracted our attention with its packaging designed for effortless application. The brand lives up to its tag line, which is ‘makeup, made easy,’ according to its founder, Rachel Reid.
SUBTL’s Lip Glaze pairs with a cleverly designed retractable lip brush keychain. It has a pointed tip to apply the gloss with precision. SUBTL’s 3-in-1 Brow BFF (shown in the photo above) includes a twist-up brow pencil on one end, and a spoolie brush on the other. Twist the spoolie to reveal a “hidden” brow gel with a dip-in brush.
What’s Trending in Applicators & Brushes?
We asked packaging suppliers—what’s new in applicators and brushes for cosmetic packaging?
Dip-in applicators, typically for liquid color cosmetics that require precision such as lip gloss wands and eyeliner brushes, are being designed for easier handling. Felt or flocked tips come in custom shapes.
Sponges and puffs, which blend creams and powders, are available in softer, more eco-conscious materials. New brush shapes and fiber technologies make it possible for consumers to contour like a pro.
In skin-care, tubes with massaging tips and droppers deliver a controlled dose, and feel luxurious to use.
Every expert we spoke to emphasized the applicator’s critical role in influencing whether a product delivers its expected results.
“The performance of a liquid eyeliner, lip liner, brow liner, or lash serum isn’t just about the formula—it relies on precision and ease of application, which are important to consumers,” says Michaela Kortan, Senior Expert of Application Systems at HCP Packaging Germany.
The applicator, brush, or tool often elevates the consumer’s perceived value of a product. “The applicator or brush determines the way the formula is applied to the skin, so it plays a crucial role in how well a product performs—and this directly impacts the user experience,” says Alessia Bernardi, Marketing Manager at PennelliFaro.
A Product’s Formula Influences Applicator Design
When designing applicators and brushes for cosmetic packaging, the product formulation influences every decision, packaging suppliers say.
“In the act of extracting the applicator from the bottle and depositing the product onto the lashes or lips, the formula’s characteristics come into play—its texture, viscosity, rheological properties, and more,” says Valentina Manera, Marketing Director at Brivaplast.
The application method can drastically change the end result, especially for color cosmetics. “The same formula applied with different application methods will change the way makeup looks,” Manera says.
Related: Sustainable Packaging That’s Driving Beauty Buyers
Mascara Brushes are a Challenge
Mascara brushes require a specific expertise. “Mascara is the most difficult product to develop because it requires a functional brush, synergistically paired with the formulation,” says Huong Bister, Head of Global R&D at Geka.
Another packaging supplier, HCP, says a mascara must deliver results in line with the consumer’s expectations.
“Marketing may drive initial sales, but a well-balanced applicator-pack-formula combination that delivers its expected attributes will directly influence repurchase decisions,” says John Kurek, VP of Global Mascara Product Marketing at HCP Packaging USA.
In Skincare, Applicators Often Dispense the Product
In skincare, the applicator often doubles as a dispensing system. Rollerballs and cooling tips can help a brand stand out among competitors.
“The applicator plays an important role in ensuring a skincare product effectively penetrates the skin,” explains Maud Lelièvre, Marketing & Communication Director at Cosmogen. “When the applicator is designed for precision, it makes it possible to target a small area of the face. The challenge is to adapt a dispensing applicator to both the formula’s viscosity and the physiognomy of the targeted area,” she says.
When Deinde was looking for a packaging supplier partner, the brand chose to collaborate with Cosmogen. Deinde chose Cosmogen’s Baby Roller for its Line-Smoothing Cream, calling the applicator tool its “Ultra-Cooling Eye Roller.” The pocket-size massaging tool has a stainless steel ball and polypropylene (PP) body.
Nuon Medical’s ‘Active Applicators’
Sometimes skincare products benefit from a high-tech applicator. Nuon Medical is pioneering next-gen skincare packaging powered by the company’s medical-grade skincare technologies.
Integrate one of Nuon Medical’s advanced technologies into an applicator, and it will apply a product while simultaneously delivering a treatment. “Our focus is on creating ‘active applicators’ for any brand, to enhance the results of any skincare product,” says Max Farrow, Head of Marketing at Nuon Medical.
Two Examples of Nuon Medical’s numerous technologies integrated into packaging include:
- An Eye Cream Applicator—an ‘active applicator’ tip on a cosmetic tube that delivers a phototherapy, micro-current, and a massaging effect to optimize product absorption. (See the photo above.)
- Skin Measuring Technology—demonstrated in its Phototherapy Skin Detector tool, which can be integrated into a jar’s cap to deliver a precise skin analysis in three seconds.
See the section below for more details.
What to Consider During Design & Development
Every applicator and makeup brush for any type of cosmetic product can be tweaked in a seemingly endless number of ways. Consider shape and material, packaging suppliers say. An applicator’s design should be based on the product formulation—and the area of the skin it will be used on.
We asked a few experts for tips on how to begin the development process for applicators and brushes for cosmetic packaging. “Determine the pickup and payoff experience that you want to deliver with your formula,” advises Steven Ostrower, President of The Penthouse Group, a packaging supplier known for its applicators. “Our dual-sided applicators are ideal for applying a foundation makeup product with different amounts of coverage for day and night looks,” Ostrower says.
The size and shape of a brush head will influence how the product is applied.
“A small, tapered brush can apply eyeshadow or concealer with precision. The proportion between bristle diameter and length is key for control, especially in delicate areas,” explains PennelliFaro’s Bernardi.
“Straight filaments will ensure smooth application, while waved or crimped fibers enhance powder retention. For loose or pressed powders, it’s important to achieve the right balance between airflow and product by using a generous diameter with long, soft, and wavy fibers,” she says.
PennelliFaro’s Magnet Eyes range includes specific applicators tailored to achieve different eye makeup effects. “Depending on the shape of the brush head, some are better suited for a smoky eye look, while others are perfect for halo eyes or graphic liner. The range ensures the best result by pairing the right tool for each makeup look,” Bernardi says.
Flocked or felt tips are often chosen for lip color and eyeliner. “Whether creating a defined cat-eye, sculpting brows, enhancing lips, or even applying a lash serum close to the roots, a soft yet firm tip allows for accuracy without discomfort,” says HCP’s Kortan.
“A well-designed felt tip will deliver a smooth, controlled, and even application while preventing ‘skipping’ or mistakes,” she says. HCP’s latest felt tip technology, developed with advanced Japanese engineering, features a unique porous structure with micro-channels that deliver ultra-smooth and consistent ink flow.
In-Demand Makeup Brush Designs
A makeup brush’s shape and fiber type affects a cosmetic’s application. One of PennelliFaro’s most often requested ranges is its Origami Prisma. The high-performance pre-shaped brush head is made using synthetic fibers and it’s sculpted to follow the natural contours of the face.
“The design’s complexity allows the brush head to adapt effortlessly to the face’s angular features,” Bernardi says. “It’s suitable for a variety of products, from foundations to contouring and highlighting. Its versatility has made it a favorite among professionals and brands looking for tools that can achieve flawless results with ease,” she says.
PennelliFaro’s High Tech Contouring Brush is another popular choice because it can blend creamy products effortlessly, including contour sticks and pencils, while also delivering a soft finish for powders. The brush has a double-dome shape, and is made from three types of fibers with a semi-wavy texture.
“The distinct double curvature and angular design is ideal for sculpting cheekbones, defining the nose, and achieving a three-dimensional look that is essential for contouring. When the brush is flattened, it delivers a seamless blush application,” Bernardi says. “This brush is highly sought-after by makeup artists and brands looking for a reliable tool that can deliver professional results across a variety of makeup applications,” she notes.
Anisa International, a packaging supplier known for its brush expertise, recently expanded its Feathering Collection. The expansion doubles its brush options for foundation, blush, and eye makeup—and adds a new ferrule design for greater control.
“These brushes deliver a soft stunning look, aiding in applying makeup with a light, airy touch,” explains Sarah Heath, Chief Marketing Officer at Anisa International. The company also added a new elongated brush head to its Glider Collection.
Designed to apply hybrid and liquid formulas with precision, the brush hugs facial curves for effortless blending and sculpting. “Our new tip enhances movement during application to ensure a comfortable experience,” Heath adds. “It performs exceptionally well with ‘glowy’ base products and easy-to-blend complexion sticks.”
Related: Makeup Applicators & Brushes Designed for Superior Product Performance
One of Anisa International’s top-sellers is its patented Liquid Touch collection, which now includes new fiber blends that apply liquids, creams, and some powder formulas. “Our enhanced fibers allow for unmatched versatility to ensure seamless blending,” Heath says.
Soft Applicators Offer Tactile Appeal
How a beauty tool feels against the skin is an important part of designing applicators and brushes for cosmetic packaging. Applicators made from softer materials offer a tactile quality that’s appealing to beauty consumers.
Cosmogen’s hybrid makeup applicators include Cosmogloss, a next-gen, ultra-soft applicator in TPE. It features the supplier’s micro-bristle technology.
“Cosmogloss is designed for delicate areas like the lip or eye contour. It is ideal for light-textured makeup and skincare formulas,” Lelièvre says. “Plus, TPE is hygienic because it’s easier to clean than a flocked applicator,” she says. The applicator is available in three shapes, in 6- or 12ml filling capacities.
The Penthouse Group launched its Cushion Puffs 10 years ago and the soft makeup applicator was an instant hit. The trend took hold, and puff applicators are still in demand.
“We recently launched our Dream Cushion Puff line, a more plush and more luxurious version of the original,” Ostrower says. “Our Dream Cushion Puffs feature our super soft polyurethane backing, combined with various Rubycell Foams,” he adds.
Ostrower says The Penthouse Group always pushes the envelope in offering sustainable designs. “Our trademarked Sustainable Tecora Foam paired with a molded handle in PCR is a breakthrough in the eye shadow applicator category. Tecora is a polyurethane foam blend, with 30% from a renewable resource,” he explains.
When one brand challenged the supplier to develop a sustainable polyurethane sponge, its team substituted petroleum-based raw materials with sustainable tapioca. “We were able to achieve a 40% blend without compromising the performance of the applicator,” Ostrower says.
Insights on Mascara Brush Development— & New Fibers
When developing mascara packaging, the brush type, wiper size, and formula must all be “in sync”—and there are countless brush design iterations that will deliver volumizing, lengthening, separation, or curling effects on the lashes. The smallest change may alter the application results, experts say.
The Penthouse Group’s Ostrower describes the design and development processes for mascara as “intense.” “We evaluate every brush, rod, wiper, and formula combination we develop, which leads to a multitude of variations, and each must be considered,” he says.
A mascara brush’s performance is dependent on its shape and material.
Twisted wire brushes often use a unique combination of different types of fibers in different diameters, while molded brushes may have soft plastic bristles in different lengths and patterns.
HCP’s offerings include its Fantasy Eyes collection of mascara packs, shown—and its Teardrop Caresse, a precision-molded brush from SIMP. In fiber brush innovations, HCP offers its Twist & Cut and V-Groove technologies for superior applications.
“Beyond material choice, factors such as a mascara brush’s hardness, shape, and wiper diameter all impact the final makeup result,” adds Laureen Decras, Marketing Manager at SIMP. As a part of HCP, SIMP’s team specializes in molded brushes.
Geka produces brushes with various types of fibers, for different benefits. “Our fibers’ surfaces have different dimensional and mechanical properties that load the bulk differently to achieve the intended lash result,” Bister explains. “A fiber with cut-outs, for example, creates a brush that will deliver volume,” she says.
Geka’s popular fibers for brushes include its volumizing sunshineFiber, and liftUp, a round, solid fiber that delivers a mechanical lifting effect. The fiber’s tip is split into four ends, with gaps that create deep, thin forks on the brush’s surface for the lashes to lay on.
“The lashes easily fall into the gaps and are lifted,” Bister says. “The fiber surface at the spread tip is porous, which facilitates bulk pick-up,” she explains.
Geka offers several brush designs that use its liftUp fiber, including its drop-shaped twisted wire brush. The brush combines 15% yellow liftUp fiber in 8 mL with 85% black fiber in 7 mL. “The ergonomic brush shape makes the application quick and easy,” Bister says. Geka offers this brush with a PCR handle decorated with Geka’s shadow printing 2.0 process.
Brivaplast launches new fibers and plastic mascara brush designs each year, which it produces at its Ornago site, near Milan. The supplier’s “Green Pixie 657” delivers volumizing and curling by combining two different fibers in one brush.
The long thick green fibers comb and separate the lashes, while the shorter, softer, and thinner black fibers entrap the bulk for a one-coat release. “The winding curve of the brush’s profile creates a slim peanut shape, which follows the natural eye shape and makes application easier,” Manera says.
The time and effort it takes to pair a mascara formula with the right type of brush will pay off in the end, suppliers say. “A strategic, well-tested pairing ensures the best results and will enhance the consumer experience—and make for a successful launch,” says HCP’s Kurek.
Droppers, Rollerballs & Spatulas to Apply Skincare
In skincare, the applicator often dispenses the product. Cosmogen focuses on the unique characteristics that a well-designed skincare applicator requires.
“Beginning with the design stage, we work with brands as key advisors offering turnkey packaging and application solutions,” Lelièvre says. “And whether it’s a skincare or makeup product, we match a formula with the right type of applicator,” she adds.
Cosmogen’s Tense Tube features a stainless steel applicator tip that is available in two shapes, for eyes or lips. “Our rounded tip was so popular for eye products that we developed our new slanted lip tip,” Lelièvre says.
Cosmogen expanded its Fresh Bottle line to include a new satin-finish glass bottle, with a ceramic applicator for cosmetic products. The ceramic tip comes in the following shapes and textures, which target different areas of the face and neck: Rounded, Swirl, Mirror, Ribbed, V-Shape, and Honey. “These applicators provide an immediate cooling effect to help de-puff and firm the skin, for a high-performance solution,” Lelièvre says.
Virospack offers a uniquely shaped tool—a spatula applicator cap, in a mono-material design. “The spatula cap is ideal to apply high-viscosity products, such as makeup foundation, gels, and creams,” says Ferreira.
“Whether you’re applying the product to a specific area or spreading it evenly, our spatula helps minimize product waste and ensures a flawless finish. These have an ergonomic design that provides excellent control for a precise and consistent application,” she says.
Skincare oils and serums often require droppers or rollerball applicators. “Roll-on applicators ensure a mess-free application, and evenly spread the product onto the skin, while providing an extra massaging effect. Our customized roll-on vials elevate the end-user experience,” says Verena Regina Fiori Ferreira, Marketing Director at Virospack.
Virospack’s push-button dropper collection includes High Dosage, Duo Dose, Ring, Syringe, and the Autofill Bulb designs, and accommodates a wide range of low-viscosity skincare formulations. “Our push-button design has a premium feel and elevates skincare application,” Ferreira says. Pair with an existing bottle or with Virospack’s tubular glass bottle, which includes a wiper. “Our pipettes have various tip formats to further customize,” Ferreira says.
Final Tips—Compatibility Testing is Crucial
Since every product formulation is unique, there’s no one-size fits-all solution for developing an applicator or brush for cosmetic packaging. The key lies in early development and testing, experts say.
“Without question, testing is absolutely critical to match an applicator with the formula to achieve the product’s claims,” says The Penthouse Group’s Ostrower. “Every product ‘promises’ the user a specific result. The applicator is the link between the formula and the result,” he says.
PennelliFaro’s Bernardi emphasizes the importance of early collaboration. “Considering an existing brush from our extensive collections is always an option, but custom solutions are what we do best. Send us your formula and we will design an applicator that will ensure your product performs at its best, while also reflecting your brand’s style.”
HCP says its “Application Futures” team has decades of experience in aligning applicators with formulas to optimize performance. “We encourage brands to explore our interactive workshops, trend analysis, and systematic performance testing to refine mascara brush designs, for both precision-molded and fiber brushes,” Kurek says.
Geka offers a one-day Brush Workshop, where participants discuss their goals for their packaging and the formula. Participants will receive guidance from Geka’s experts on mascara brush development, and which brush-wiper combinations to test. “By the end of the day, everyone leaves with a clear plan for their next launch. Our constructive discussions yield results and inspire new ideas,” Bister says.
On a final note, beauty brands should take advantage of their suppliers’ expertise when developing new products, because they can help you identify the ideal applicator or brush pairing for a formula, advises Anisa International’s Heath. “Our insights will help enhance application and user experience for your product,” she says, adding, “Applicator development is truly an art form.”
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Spotlight: Are ‘Active Applicators’ the Next Big Skincare Packaging Innovation?
Nuon Medical is pioneering next-gen skincare packaging powered by the company’s medical-grade skincare technologies.
Nuon Medical, a leader in beauty-tech innovation, aims to partner with brands to incorporate its medical-grade skincare technologies into packaging—and elevate the product efficacy and application experience. Nuon Medical offers phototherapy, micro-currents, cooling, heating, needling, and PEMF technologies.
Using Nuon Medical’s technologies, an applicator can deliver a skincare treatment while applying the product. “We call them ‘active applicators,’ where the technology becomes part of the product,” explains Max Farrow, Head of Marketing at Nuon Medical.
Nuon Medical’s technologies can be integrated seamlessly into a product’s packaging to enhance product formula, the application process, and the results.
“The effect you can achieve with a skincare product alone might satisfy the consumer—but if a brand incorporates our technologies, users will see a huge increase in a product’s efficacy,” Farrow says.
To showcase its technologies, Nuon Medical designed a premium Facial Sculpt Applicator that dispenses an anti-wrinkle skincare cream with a precise dose. It also provides a red-light therapy treatment.
Another design, Nuon Medical’s Eye Cream Applicator, features an active applicator tip on a cosmetic tube. (It is featured in the photo above, and on our cover.) It delivers a phototherapy, micro-current, and massaging effect to optimize absorption.
A brand can incorporate Nuon Medical’s technologies into a part of the package, such as the cap, as a secondary applicator—so the user can do a treatment after applying the product.
“We can implement any of our technologies into all types of cosmetic and skincare packaging, using numerous types of applications. The possibilities are endless,” says Farrow.
Nuon Medical also offers skin measuring technology, as demonstrated in its Phototherapy Skin Detector tool. The small device combines light therapy with skin diagnostics to provide detailed readings for a fast, precise skin analysis. (This is shown in a jar’s cap in the photo at left.)
The user presses a button while holding the small device over the skin, and after three seconds, a reading appears on the display. It can be customized to detect things like skin moisture or oil levels.
The Phototherapy Skin Detector tool can be embedded in a product’s cap, as shown. Or, a brand can develop a custom way to integrate Nuon Medical’s skin measuring technology into a package.
“Skincare products take time before the user sees results, but our skin measuring technology provides instant gratification, so the user knows the product is working,” says Farrow. “Our products provide transformative results that can revolutionize the beauty experience,” he says.
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